Trailing Arm Bushings Bolt Right In...
Posted: Sun Nov 05, 2017 2:17 pm
When I was under the car prior to the Reptile Roundup tightening bolts and inspecting things, I found the Jaguar IRS trailing arm bushings were beginning to crumble. After 37K miles, not unexpected for even the best (Pete and Jakes) plastic bushings.
So I thought, when we get back, I'll replace them. It'll be simple. They will Bolt Right In. You know the punch line: WRONG!
First, I e-mail Fred the builder to ask if he would identify the parts or at least a source. As usual, he didn't respond. He doesn't answer the phone either. Maybe I should switch deodorants?
After we return, I think I'll just remove the arms, measure the bushings and order some.
First, I find the front bolts won't come out until I move the sidepipes:
So I remove the pipe hanger bolts and loosen the three collector bolts to get the front trailing arm bolts out. Then I remove the bushings, find the dimensions and connect to Energy Suspension's web site. I locate bushings and sleeves that seem to match the measurements and order a set of four. They are due in next week, but I'll probably be in Georgia visiting family when they do arrive...
While examining the remains of the bushings more closely, it looks like they came from Pete and Jakes, but I've already ordered from Energy, so what the heck. They'll work fine.
I decide to take the rear bushings out, as it looks like all I need to do is remove two bolts.
Wrong again, of course.
A closer look reveals that the outer end of each bolt, the head, is trapped between the wishbone and the hub. So the lower pivot shaft of the hub has to be removed, and the hub rotated out of the way: Just jack up the rear, remove the wheel (after removing the spinner) and then remove the hub pivot rod.
While removing the driver's side trailing arm bolt, I find it was too short to make the Nylock secure. So here we go again: buy a bolt that's too long, shorten it, then cut the head to 1/2 thickness because it will interfere with the hub pivot if I don't. Just the usual extra work (Bolts Right In!) Thank goodness for the Dremel and its reinforced metal cutoff disks.
As you can guess, the fun isn't over yet. After removing the trailing arms, it looked like the ends were different front to back. Sure enough the front is wider than the back: And the sleeves that fit inside the bushings are different widths: This means that when the new bushings and sleeves arrive, the back ones need to be narrowed about 3/16 of an inch. Then maybe the thing can be reassembled.
The new parts should arrive this week, so I'll update the thread if/when I figure out whether the parts are the correct ones, and modify them to fit if they are...
Tom
So I thought, when we get back, I'll replace them. It'll be simple. They will Bolt Right In. You know the punch line: WRONG!
First, I e-mail Fred the builder to ask if he would identify the parts or at least a source. As usual, he didn't respond. He doesn't answer the phone either. Maybe I should switch deodorants?
After we return, I think I'll just remove the arms, measure the bushings and order some.
First, I find the front bolts won't come out until I move the sidepipes:
So I remove the pipe hanger bolts and loosen the three collector bolts to get the front trailing arm bolts out. Then I remove the bushings, find the dimensions and connect to Energy Suspension's web site. I locate bushings and sleeves that seem to match the measurements and order a set of four. They are due in next week, but I'll probably be in Georgia visiting family when they do arrive...
While examining the remains of the bushings more closely, it looks like they came from Pete and Jakes, but I've already ordered from Energy, so what the heck. They'll work fine.
I decide to take the rear bushings out, as it looks like all I need to do is remove two bolts.
Wrong again, of course.
A closer look reveals that the outer end of each bolt, the head, is trapped between the wishbone and the hub. So the lower pivot shaft of the hub has to be removed, and the hub rotated out of the way: Just jack up the rear, remove the wheel (after removing the spinner) and then remove the hub pivot rod.
While removing the driver's side trailing arm bolt, I find it was too short to make the Nylock secure. So here we go again: buy a bolt that's too long, shorten it, then cut the head to 1/2 thickness because it will interfere with the hub pivot if I don't. Just the usual extra work (Bolts Right In!) Thank goodness for the Dremel and its reinforced metal cutoff disks.
As you can guess, the fun isn't over yet. After removing the trailing arms, it looked like the ends were different front to back. Sure enough the front is wider than the back: And the sleeves that fit inside the bushings are different widths: This means that when the new bushings and sleeves arrive, the back ones need to be narrowed about 3/16 of an inch. Then maybe the thing can be reassembled.
The new parts should arrive this week, so I'll update the thread if/when I figure out whether the parts are the correct ones, and modify them to fit if they are...
Tom